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Don't underestimate the value and importance of choosing the right laundry room clothes hanger. These helpful tools are not all created equally, nor should they be expected to serve the same purpose. While you may not have the desire to do a whole laundry room remodel, you can significantly improve the functionality of the area.
Not so many years ago, before everyone had helpful organizers and Rubbermaid containers to store extra clothes in, people used three basic types of hangers to fulfill all of their needs being pant hangers, coat hangers and wire hangers. Today, there are slimline or octopus varieties along with cascading hooks, which come in handy when using racks to store items before transferring to the closet. Not to mention, there are plastic hangers in every color and even different sizes for the little ones in your life. You can even find curved and extra wide hangers to offer solutions to those hanger bumps that always form in the shoulders of sweaters.
Eliminate Wire
The first thing that you need to do is go through every laundry room cabinet and get rid of your wire hangers. While your dry cleaner may use them because they are cheap and take up minimal room, they are not necessarily your best option. On a side note, you may want to take all of your old wire hangers to your dry cleaner to have. Chances are, you'll get a few pieces cleaned for free out of the deal.
These types of hangers are not practical in your closet because they leave indentation in pants, bumps in expensive sweaters and they get easily bunched up when they are hanging on a rack. Not to mention, clothes often slide off one side and they cannot hold up against heavy weight. If you want your clothes to last longer, you will eliminate these cheap items m every closet of your home.
Quality Hangers
You should take as much pride in the hanger that you choose as you did with deciding what wood would be the best option for refacing your cabinets. Ideally, a hanger will hold the weight of what you are hanging without bending. It should also be wide enough to not leave fabric bumps and it always helps if your closet is visually pleasing. Some to consider are fabric/padded, wood, plastic tubular, specialty and crystal hangers with metal hooks.
Organization solutions
To make the most out of every laundry room clothes hanger, you can even use them to bring an increased level of organization to every closet in your home. Wooden varieties should be used for coats and crystal styles are appropriate for pants and skirts. Colored plastic hangers are perfect to group your clothes in categories such as work, weekend, evening, casual, athletic or any other groups that fit your lifestyle.
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Worm composting -- also known as vermiculture -- is the proverbial win-win situation. It gives you a convenient way to dispose of organic waste, such as vegetable peelings. It saves space in the county landfill, which is good for the environment. It gives worms a happy home and all the free "eats" that they could want. For those that have gardens or even potted plants, homegrown compost is a great way to feed and nurture plants.
Worm composting, which some advocates have dubbed "the organic garbage disposal," recycles food waste into rich, dark, earth-smelling soil conditioner. It's such great stuff that Planet Natural sells a variety of organic compost that ranges in price from .95 to .95 as well as potting soil that contains compost.
And despite its reputation, worm composting doesn't need to be a smelly endeavor. If you take care to set things up correctly, your compost bin shouldn't be stinky.
Worm composting is being seen more and more as a way to help our environment and reduce waste. The City of Oakland in California has a recycling program expressly for food waste. (It supplies the bin and you supply the organic garbage.) The City of Vancouver in British Columbia, Canada, supplies residents with worm bins and even has a hot-line you can call to find where to buy worms. Spokane, Washington posts information on how to get started in worm composting to encourage residents to try this environmentally friendly way of disposing of garbage.
To get started you need: worms, a container and "bedding."
Don't go out and dig out night crawlers that live in the soil by your home to populate your compost bin. Night crawlers need to tunnel through dirt to eat and survive and they can't live on vegetable waste. Instead, you need redworms -- Eisenia foetida (also known as red wiggler, brandling or manure worm) and Lumbricus rubellus (manure worm).
You can buy worms from sites like Planet Natural. (We sell 500 red worms for .95 - shipping included.) If you've got the time and the access, you can also find a horse stable and recover worms from horse manure or ask a farmer to ransack his manure pile for worms.
Mary Appelhof, author of "Worms Eat My Garbage" recommends two pounds of worms -- about 2,000 wigglers -- for every pound per day of food waste. (Some experts recommend a one-to-one ratio -- one pound of worms for one pound of garbage.) To figure out how much food waste your household generates, monitor it for a week and divide by seven.
When populating your bin with worms, also keep in mind that worms, provided you give them adequate food and a good home, can double their populations every 90 days. It's probably best to start out with slightly fewer worms than you need and just expect that your worm population will increase to fill your demand for processing organic waste.
You'll also need a container for the worms. We have a variety of worm bins on sale here including the Wormtopia (9.95) and the Can O Worms (6.95).
If you prefer, you can also build your own. Size does matter when it comes to compost. You'll want a container with depth of between eight and 12 inches. Wood is a great building material. If you don't feel like building from scratch, you can even adapt a "Rubbermaid" type tub and turn it into a composting bin. Books such as "Worms Eat My Garbage" give details on how to build your own compost bin. Just remember that worms like a dark, moist (not wet) environment and they hate light. Any container should be opaque.
Bins can be located anywhere from under the kitchen sink to outside or in your garage. One important consideration is temperature. Ideally a worm compost bin should be located in areas where the temperatures are between 40 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Red worms generally prefer temperatures in the 55 to 77 degree range. If you live in an area that has harsh winters, you'll need to move your bin inside during the winter months or compost on a seasonal basis. Another consideration: worms are like people in that they do not like a lot of noise or vibrations. Keep them away from high traffic areas.
Once you've got the worms and the containers you're ready to set up your "compost shop."
First you'll want to build a home for your worms and one which will make them happy and prolific. You'll need bedding that will fill the bin from one-third to one-half full. To create bedding soak a large quantity of shredded newspapers or cardboard. Worms want an environment that is about 75 percent water. Newspapers should only take a few minutes to take up enough water to make proper bedding. Allow cardboard, such as toilet paper rolls and tissue boxes, to soak overnight. Don't use garden soil or mix fresh cow, horse or chicken manure into the bedding. These emit gases and will raise the temperature of your compost bin. You could end up "cooking" your worms to death.
Once the bedding matter has been soaked, wring it out until it is moist, but not dripping. Place it in the bin along with something gritty such as a bit of soil, fine sand, leaves, cornstarch, sawdust or ground egg shells. (Worms don't have teeth so they need something gritty to help them grind up the paper and food.) Once your bin is up and running it will be self-sufficient and you won't need to add additional grit until you harvest the worm castings and clean the bin.
To make your worms feel at home, dig down until about the middle of the bedding and place your worms there. Don't just put them on top. Then place the lid on the bin and keep it at a moderate temperature. Leave them alone for about a week to settle in. They will feed off the bedding.
After about a week, start feeding your worms food scraps such as fruit and vegetable peels, pulverized egg shells, tea bags and coffee grounds. Avoid meat scraps, bones, fish, leftover dairy products and oily foods since these will make your compost pile smell as well as attract flies and rodents. Experts are divided on whether pasta and grains should be tossed into the compost or thrown away in regular garbage. Your best bet is to experiment and let your worms tell you what they'll eat or won't eat.
Of course, there are certain things that worms won't eat or shouldn't eat. Do not dispose of glass, plastic or aluminum foil in your compost. Although paper can be used as bedding, don't include paper with colored printing on it. Many colored inks are toxic to worms. Also avoid rubber bands and sponges.
It's best to feed worms once a week in small amounts. If you feed them more than they can process you will end up with a stinking compost bin as the garbage literally backs up.
Compost actually doesn't smell. The foul odor comes from rotting food that the worms haven't eaten yet. If you give them appropriately sized meals -- not supersized entrees -- they will eat the food before it starts rotting (and smelling.)
If they are eating too slowly, chop up vegetable matter, which is easier for them to eat and gives new meaning to the term "fast food." If the chopping doesn't help enough, reduce the amount of organic matter you are feeding them.
When you feed your worms, check and see how things are going. If the bedding is wet, give some additional paper bedding to soak up the excess. (Remember that the bedding should be moist, not dripping.) If the bedding is too dry, use water from a spray bottle to moisten it.
Once your compost bin is up and running, it requires little maintenance until little or no original bedding is visible and the contents of the bin are reduced in bulk and mainly consist of worm castings, which are brown and "earthy" looking. Once your bin has reached that point, it's time to harvest the worm castings and give your worms new bedding. Castings can be harvested anywhere from two and a half months to every six months, depending on how many worms you have and how much food you're giving them.
There are several harvesting methods. For those with the time and patience or little kids, you dump the bin's contents onto a large plastic sheet and then manually separate the worms from the compost. Children usually love helping out with harvesting the worm casings. Remember that your helpers as well as yourself should wear gloves. Once all the worm casings are removed, keep aside some of the compost to mix in with the new bedding and then the cycle starts all over again.
A more common way to harvest is to move everything - worms, castings, bedding, food - to one side of the bin. Pick out partially decomposed materials and push to the other side. Place some food on top of the partially decomposed materials. Replace the lid and leave it alone for a couple weeks. During that time, the worms should migrate over to the new food. Once they've gone to the other side, put on a pair of gloves and harvest the castings. Make sure you don't remove any worms in the process. Then give the worms new bedding mixed in with some residual compost.
Compost is useful whether you have an apartment adorned with potted plants or you have a backyard garden. Use compost to enrich potting soil and the soil in your garden. It also makes great mulch. It's relatively hassle-free and you're not only helping your plants, but the environment as well.
Common Problems and Solutions
Problem: Strong, unpleasant odors from the compost bin.
Solutions: Most likely the odor is from rotting food because you are giving your worms too much to eat and food is sitting around too much so it rots. The solution is to stop adding food waste until the worms have broken down what they have. (Also avoid meat and other greasy food which can cause odor problems.) If odor becomes a problem, also try stirring the contents of your compost pile. That will allow more air in, which can also reduce odors. At the same time you are exploring those solutions also check your bin's drainage holes to ensure they are not blocked and drill more holes if necessary. Worms will down if the bin's contents are too wet.
Problem: Worms are crawling out of the bedding and onto the sides or lid of the bin.
Solution: The bedding may be too acidic which is forcing the worms to migrate. Bedding can become too acidic if you add too much acidic food scraps such as orange peels. Try reducing the amount of acidic organic matter that you're putting into the bin.
Problem: Fruit flies.
Solution: Avoid the problem in the first place by burying food waste and not overloading your worms with too much food. You can also try keeping a plastic sheet or a piece of old carpet or sacking on the surface of the compost bin. If flies persist, consider moving the compost bin to a location where the files will not be a problem. Also think about recruiting a few friendly spiders to take up residence near the compost bin.
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When you first move into your home it seems like you have so much space. However, as the years go by and you collect more possessions, you may find yourself becoming a bit of a pack rat. When this realization strikes home you have to ask yourself the question; what am I going to do with all this stuff? If this is your reality, perhaps it's time to flush out the unwanted or unnecessary items and begin to reorganize your home.
Luckily, home organization can be broken down into an easy to follow step-by-step process. It will definitely take more than a day and could even take more than a week to get your entire house and everything in it back to a manageable level, but once you have accomplished that, staying organized in the future becomes infinitely easier. If you have a family that you can call upon to take part, you'll want to enlist their help. Not only can they help pitch in but they might also learn a thing or two about controlling clutter in their own lives.
1. Start with the busy zones.
Usually the most used rooms in a house are the living room and kitchen. More often than not, when people come home, these two rooms are where everyone and everything ends up. Because of this, counter, couch, and floor space tends to become quite cluttered in these two rooms. The important thing to focus on here is to concentrate on getting these high traffic rooms set up the way that you want them before moving on to another part of the house.
2. Separate stuff into categories.
If you have large Rubbermaid tubs or containers, they would come in handy here. Otherwise you can simply use some heavy duty garbage bags. Everything that you are sorting through can placed into one of the following piles: KEEP, THROW AWAY, GIVE AWAY, and RELOCATE. Items that you intend to keep in that room are to keep. Items that are broken or are not functional can be thrown away. Clothes, furniture, or other odds and ends that are still in great condition can be dropped off for donation or picked up by a local charity service. Anything that either belongs in another room or is being moved elsewhere should be labelled 'Relocate' for moving when you get to that part of the house.
3. Empty all your drawers and cabinets.
Although this is a time-consuming process, it is always easier to begin organizing when you start with an empty space. If you line things up on a table or counter, you can sort the stuff and replace items while someone else helps put other items in their respective piles.
4. Use storage containers.
Over the years, storage containers have gone from being ugly, strictly functional tubs to aesthetically pleasing and versatile storage units. Instead of stacking storage containers in the garage, you can now buy ones that match your house or room décor and allow you to integrate them into a space to serve multiple purposes and look completing unassuming.
5. Utilize all available space.
For example, many kitchens have room above cabinets or appliances that would allow you to store extra items and goods. This built in room creates extra storage space without needing to use a storage container. As for the bedroom, make sure to utilize the space under your beds to place things like winter gear or shoes. There are a number of options when it comes to finding storage units that are the right height and fit for different bed sizes. These flat storage bins can easily slide under a bed or dresser, allowing you to take advantage of previously dead space.
6. Label your containers.
It's a good practice to use labels and a permanent marker to clarify the contents of your storage containers. Since many containers are used for many different things over the course of a lifetime, you should avoid writing on the actual container. Labelling also allows for easy identification if you intend to sell or give away a container of items or are planning to move in the future. This will save you time since you won't have to open each individual container to locate an item.
With all that being said, organizing your entire house will take some time. However, once the job is done, you home will have a new and fresh feel to it. Many things will have returned to their proper place, some items will have found a new and better place, while other items may no longer have a place in your house. By doing this whole house organization, you will create a higher degree of cleanliness and this will allow you to maintain greater structure and flow in your household....at least until the next big overhaul.
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Many bearded dragons owner don't know how to keep a
dragon clean, so here are some words about bathing
a bearded dragon. This should give you the basics about.
Bathing is an important part in keeping a healthy dragon. Regular
bathing helps improve the Beardie's overall hydration status and
keep the Beardie clean and happy.
Most Bearded Dragons prefer to potty in the tub (making it very
easy for you to clean up after them and disinfect the surfaces).
Baths also help during shedding, keeping the loosening skin soft.
Some Beardies are comfortable bathing in the sink or the bath tub
and others may not like bath time at all. You can try placing a
see-through Rubbermaid container on your countertop and gently
placing your Beardie inside. He may feel more comfortable resting
on your hand while it is submerged in the water. Or you could try
rolling up a wash cloth and letting him rest his arms on it. They
need to feel secure or they will never enjoy bath time.
While bathing your Bearded Dragon, the bath water should ideally be
warm on your wrist and not hot, much like bath water for a small
child. Make the water only as deep as your Beardie's chest or half
way up their front arms. You should never leave your Beardie
unattended in the bath because accidents only take a second to
happen.
The ideal temperature for the bath water should be ...
More on bathing and caring your bearded dragon, along with everything
you need to know about bearded dragons, you can find on Bearded Dragons
Secrets Revealed Ebook.
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